I Tried Probiotic Skin Care to Get More Radiant Skin

Ever wondered how much impact one person can make in the world? Consider Jamie Lee Curtis. Isn’t she the one single person who taught us all about probiotics in yogurt in the first place? Before those Activia ads, few of us even knew we had a microbiome.

In case you didn’t watch a lot of TV a few years back, a refresher: The human microbiome is composed of the bacteria in your body that keep your digestion regular and your body healthy. And that includes your skin. In fact, we’re landlords to more than 10,000 different microbial species at any time. These are the bacteria that help your complexion stay clear and glowing. In theory. With that in mind, I decided to make a happy home for thousands of the little guys. For two weeks, I dedicated myself to new skin-care products — some containing live microbes — that promised to deliver better, more radiant skin.

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The theory is that our grungy, dirt-caked ancestors once had a peaceful, self-regulating skin microbiome. Our cultural obsession with cleanliness has wrought anarchy (aka dryness, irritation, redness, acne) via overly thorough cleansers that strip away useful oils and bacteria. For my experiment, I wanted the real deal — not just a skin cream with a dollop of yogurt in it. I used some products with live microbes and some without. The bottom line: no soap, no backing out.

Every morning, I applied LaFlore Probiotic Daily Defense Moisturizer ($95), which has a cocktail of yeast extract and fermented ingredients. It feels light and nongreasy, and it soaks in quickly (always a plus). The millennial-­pink tint doesn’t come from dyes; a dark maroon antioxidant called pycnogenol gives it that rosy hue. I sprayed myself with Mother Dirt AO+ Mist ($49) twice a day and swapped my ultralathery body wash for the company’s unscented cleanser, which wouldn’t wash away my new friends. Ammonia-oxidizing bacteria in the mist convert the irritating ammonia and urea in sweat into beneficial nitric oxide and nitrite.

I admit I was slightly concerned about introducing my lady parts to new bacteria, even though the company specifically says it’s fine. Colorless and odorless, the mist and cleanser (which erupts from the bottle as unscented foam) looked innocuous enough — but so does ar­senic, right? Luckily, they didn’t kill me or give me a UTI. They felt lovely. The mist was cooling and refreshing, and the fragrance-­free body wash felt light and bubbly, though it did take some of the joy out of showering. Who knew I was in it for the aromatherapy?

Before bed, I applied LaFlore Probiotic Cleanser ($40) and LaFlore Probiotic Serum Concentrate ($145). Surprisingly, I felt fresh, clean, and cozy as I tucked myself and my new bacteria family into bed. But after my first yoga class, it was undeniable: I smelled. I don’t sweat a lot, and even when I do go dewy, BO isn’t usually a problem. I misted again and again, waiting for the magic to happen, but the stank returned. Over the next week, I felt as if I were spraying myself with BO cologne. I bailed on the mist a few days early because, ew, enough already.

If everybody’s skin microbiome is unique, can there even be a one-bacteria-fits-all fix? Scientists are working to find out. “The strains in the product really do matter,” says Dendy Engelman, a New York City dermatologist who puts many of her acne patients on an oral probiotic to reset their intestinal flora. “There’s a real, established gut-brain-skin axis, so probiotics aren’t just a marketing ploy. But some bacteria that are good for GI health may not translate to the skin.” Another glitch: Nobody wants a strain like E. faecalis (“Exactly what it sounds like — it’s found in fecal matter,” she says) in their night cream, even if it is beneficial for the skin.

Getting good skin may be as much about what you don’t use as what you do: Someone who overexfoliates or uses harsh cleansers might see a huge improvement by switching regimens. It could be the power of probiotics, or it could simply be that she stopped stripping off her face at night.

A version of this article originally appeared in the November 2017 issue of Allure. To get your copy, head to newsstands or subscribe now.

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