Beverly Hills-based celebrity dermatologist Harold Lancer is one of the main men behind the faces (and bodies) of Hollywood’s elite, but the latest flux of technology into his Rodeo Drive clinic is about to put him on the map, again. Here, he walks us through the Lancer Method, the future of cosmetic surgery, and more.
I love your products. I’ve been using the Polish and Cleanse after removing my makeup every night, per your system.
And make sure you do the Body Polish, Cleanse and Nourish as well.
Oh, I should. I’m very face-focused. In meeting with different facialists and dermatologists, I found that everyone has a different take on exfoliation. Why polish every night per the Lancer Method?
Here’s the thing, all people that we see (in the world of beauty or otherwise), if they already use a skincare program, we try to wean them off of whatever it is. We want to get them on the Lancer program. Once we get them off whatever brand they’re using, we start them on Polish once a week. You get into the shower, get a little bit of steam, and the Polish is used first, one night out of the week for maybe one or two weeks. You rinse the Polish you do the Cleanse and get out. Maybe you use some Advanced C Radiance Treatment or the Retexturing Treatment and the Intensive Night Treatment Eye Contour Lifting Cream.
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And then?
The second week you go to twice a week, and the third week, three times. You work your way up. Once you get to nightly use, you’re at a set point because nightly exfoliation is the ideal treatment. Now, I’m 63. I do the polish morning and night. For athletic people, which I am not, it’s a good thing to do. You can do it twice daily.
Like someone who is new to retinol?
Same kind of thing. The retinol replacement is Younger. The Younger product is a multi-keyed retinoid to all three receptors. You know Retin-A is only one receptor, and Tazorac is only one receptor. There are three retinoid receptors, the Younger has three herbal and one synthetic that attracts to all three. You start it once a week, at night. So you might do the Polish on a Monday. And then on Tuesday, use the Cleanse and the Younger.
In terms of the three cell receptors, why do prescription strength retinoids only target one?
Because they’re patented. The companies that make the various retinoids have patents and they don’t share well. So if you get a prescription strength retinoid, no matter what the strength, it’s a retinoid for one receptor. It’s sort of like you only buttoned this shirt with one button, but the proper way to wear it is with all three buttons.
And what’s the effect on the skin by hitting all three receptors?
The advantage is (in this form) number one, it doesn’t interfere with pregnancy or breastfeeding. It doesn’t make you sun sensitive and it’s non-irritating because the concept of using all three is better than beating the hell out of one receptor. That’s why people using Retin-A often get a retinoid dermatitis or redness, scaling and irritation. Because the company that has that one patent goes, ‘Well you know, if we really beat the hell out of that one receptor, maybe the others will behave better.’ But that’s not the way skin cells work, which is why people get irritated from Retin-A or the other knock off brands. You need to be targeting all three, and gently. Retinoids are used to change the signaling for the cell so it produces more collagen elastic tissue.
Would that also help with the patients who are using it for acne purposes?
Yes. Even the sensitive patients, we’ll start them on the retinoid maybe once night a week, and mix it 50/50 with the night sensitive nourish. To cut it a little bit. That retinoid will slowly repair the flawed reproduction mechanism in sensitive skin. In blemished skin, also, we start them once a week at night. Working them up from every other night, to nightly.
What are some of the biggest differences in skin concerns between East Coast and West Coast clients?
I see people from 5 continents, 80 different countries. It’s very interesting, different ancestries, from different parts of the world, have different concerns. So olive people care about color clarity. I have about 1000 patients who are New York-based.
That’s a lot of New Yorkers. What do you notice?
In terms of intensity, usually the East Coast as group is a little bit more lax in their skincare. They’re a little bit more forgiving in terms of flaws. They’re not as fixated by smaller imperfections and as a result; usually the East Coast consumer is less critical of results compared to the West Coast consumer.
That’s interesting! What are the West Coast clients like?
Well, I see mostly the entertainment people. They make a living by being flawless. The West Coast level of what is called perfection is more intense that what other people would think. I’ll give you an example; Michelle Williams has been on record using our products. If you look at her skin, absolutely flawless. She’s been our friend since she was 16. That’s a Lancer face from the beginning. Whether she’s living in New York, which she is, her mentality is still Los Angeles, … the need for that flawless. So do I treat them differently? It’s a matter of need. I try to equal the bar in terms of having people understand what is a realistic expectation.
See the full interview with Kim Kardashian's Dermatologist on the future of anti-aging on Wmagazine.com
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