Retinoids Paired With Topical Steroids May Prevent Irritation, Says Study

Skin-care products packed with retinol or retinoids are dermatologist-recommended favorites for a reason: The vitamin-A derivative kicks ass at fighting fine lines, evening out skin tone, boosting collagen, and zapping acne. But all of that power comes at a price. Retinoids can be extremely irritating, leaving you red, itchy, and super-sensitive to the sun. But, according to a recent study, all those side effects could potentially be lessened with a topical cream.

Retinoids work by speeding up cell turnover, Sejal Shah, a dermatologist and founder of SmarterSkin Dermatology in New York City, tells Allure. "Generally, the adjustment period is three to four weeks," she says. "During this time, irritation tends to be maximal."

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In the new study, researchers used a split-face trial to test the effects of pairing a topical corticosteroid with retinol to reduce irritation. Using 16 patients with acne, each participant was instructed to apply a retinol cream to both sides of their face for two months. For the first month, they applied a topical corticosteroid cream to one side and a regular moisturizer to the other side to act as a control. For the second month, they used only the retinoid on both sides.

Published in the British Journal of Dermatology, the study found pairing retinol-containing products with the topical corticosteroid reduced retinoid-induced irritation and dryness — especially in those first two weeks.

But there is a catch. Most patients in the study only saw small improvements in irritation. So while it presents an interesting area to research further, the results of the study don't guarantee getting a corticosteroid will solve all your retinol woes, says Shah.

"When starting a retinoid, I advise easing in," Shah says. If you've never used a retinoid before, start with a lower concentration before jumping to the strongest strength and gradually increase the strength." Start by applying your retinoid just two or three nights a week. (We like the Best of Beauty-winning Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Night Moisturizer.) As your skin gets used to the ingredient, increase the frequency by one night a week every week or so. "It can also be helpful to prep the skin with a moisturizer with anti-inflammatory ingredient and make sure you are using a moisturizer throughout the day," she says.

If your skin is still super-irritated after a month of retinoid use, it might be time to dial back, Shah says. "Switch to a weaker formulation and make sure you are moisturizing adequately," she says. "If you have some extremely dry patches, you can apply a one percent hydrocortisone cream twice a day to those areas for a couple of days."

The bottom line? The new retinoid research is certainly promising, but it's not a one-size-fits all solution. If you're using retinoids, talk to your derm about options for combating its potential side effects.

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