Hairstylist Explains Why Razors and Thinning Shears Are Their Tools of Choice

When it comes to haircutting, bringing up the topic of razors can be quite cringe-worthy. I get the same feeling at the thought of nails on a chalkboard. Eek. But lo and behold, a video on Instagram changed my mind. Recently, Jason Reyes, global trainer for Paul Mitchell, posted a clip of a rainbow-haired woman getting her strands cut with a pair of thinning shears and a razor, no less.

The process was done by Robert Cromeans, salon owner as well as global artistic and business director for John Paul Mitchell Systems. Click play below and you’ll see close-ups of how the ends of the hair just glide right off with the use of a razor. Even with super sharp blades, the technique is done so gently that it’s not daunting to watch — I actually can’t take my eyes away from it! And from the number of the video views (more than 90,000 to date), it seems that others are taking notice, too.

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But there’s a misconception people tend to make about ways to cut hair and the type of tools used — razors, in specific. It’s often associated with broken hair and split ends, which can happen if your stylist isn't using the tools correctly. During a chat on the phone, Cromeans set it straight with an explanation of why certain techniques are all the rage in the hair industry.

“If you look at the revolution of hair, say, from the flapper bob, that was definitely done more often than not with a razor,” says Cromeans. “If someone is looking to make a dramatic change to their hair, I use this tool in order to give it a lived-in look with a soft edge, so it’s not so clean and perky.”

In the video, the client’s natural hair color is dark brown before getting bleached and colored. “Whenever you lighten hair, it fattens up and that’s where the razor is critical.” And it’s not just for aesthetic reasons: it also eliminates excess weight on the bottom of the hair, making it more wearable. He continues, “Using a razor for hair is like using Photoshop. It creates a feather-like bottom and blurs the lines. They become invisible layers, if you will.” Here, conditioner is applied to the hair before it even comes close to the blades for a smoother cut (think of it like shaving). Following, Cromeans adds a dab of Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum and blow-dries the hair. He finishes the look by evening out the length with a pair of thinning shears.

Of course, each haircut technique — along with the tools used — depends on the style you’re going for. For example, Reyes, who works with Cromeans, demonstrates a completely different look in another video. He starts by cutting the sides of the client's natural brown hair with clippers, followed by the top with scissors and a razor.

“For the top, I cut in the back with a strong finger angle to preserve length through the crown area,” says Reyes. “Then, on the center top, I use a higher elevation all point cut for movement, and in the front, I cut with a razor for softness — this also adds separation as the hair gets heavier towards the front. I want to create some balance to the weight.”

So, yes, there may be misconceptions about ways to cut hair, but now I’m looking beyond them. “It’s just one of those things — there’s an instinct to it,” says Cromeans. “I don’t want hairdressers to get so caught up with the technique that they forget that little voice inside that knows what complements the client best. People with not a lot of hair need to have it layered very differently than people with thick hair. In that case, a razor can make all the difference.”

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